The Hermit Culture Living On in China’s Misty Mountains

The Hermit Culture Living On in China’s Misty Mountains
Disillusioned recluses have come to the Zhongnan Mountains for centuries. Now, a government campaign threatens their way of life.

Lin Qiqing

SHAANXI, Northwest China — On a misty winter’s afternoon, about an hour’s drive from the ancient city of Xi’an and a muddy 30-minute trek through the Zhongnan Mountains, we finally reach the secluded Beiji Temple.

The building has clearly seen better days. Beiji Temple was constructed during the Ming dynasty, but most of the original temple was destroyed during the violence of the Cultural Revolution and only the main hall remains today, its tiled rooftop covered with weeds. “On rainy days, mud falls from the ceiling,” says Zhang Shiquan, one of the three Daoist devotees currently residing at the temple.

Not that Zhang’s complaining. Last year, feeling jaded by city life and experiencing heart and weight problems, the nature-loving former salesman came to seek solace at Beiji Temple. There, he met a hermitlike Daoist adept — “a soft speaker and a great listener,” Zhang says — and decided to stay for good. Within three months of moving to the temple, the light, vegetable-rich diet flattened his belly and his introverted personality found an outlet, he claims. Zhang now spends his days learning pottery and reading e-books on a smartphone with no internet connectivity.

Video:click here to play
(Having failed at his first job after graduating from college, Xinxing decided to follow his master into the Zhongnan Mountains to study and learn kung fu alongside other practitioners of Taosim. By Lu Yunwen and Wu Huiyuan/Sixth Tone)

In the past decade, thousands of young people like Zhang have come to the Zhongnan Mountains hoping to connect with around 600 modern-day hermits, or yinshi, according to estimates by Zhongnan Cottage, a local civic organization. Hermitic lifestyles have a long history in China: During the dynastic era, the term was applied to educated, conscientious men who fled from the social expectation to join what they perceived as a corrupt, immoral government and eked out poor lives in remote rural China. Occasionally, emperors rewarded hermits with high-ranking government positions, believing them to possess deeper wisdom than conventional officials.

The Zhongnan Mountains emerged as a popular retreat during the Tang dynasty due to their location near the then imperial capital, Chang’an. Indeed, so many hermits came here that the phrase “take a Zhongnan shortcut” is still used in Chinese to refer to people who get rapidly promoted to high positions. During the Cultural Revolution — an often-violent political campaign that lasted from 1966 to 1976 — religious sites like Beiji Temple came under attack. When China began allowing foreigners to visit again during the 1980s, it was widely assumed that religious life had been completely eradicated, crushed under the boots of Mao’s Red Guards.

Western researchers were therefore excited to witness the reemergence of many small hermit communities in the early years of the reform era. In 1989, Bill Porter — an American translator of Buddhist texts — published “Road to Heaven,” a best-seller that documented the lives of the Zhongnan Mountains’ Daoist and Buddhist monks and nuns. The book was translated into Chinese in 2001 and proved popular among a domestic readership curious to see their country through the eyes of a foreign visitor. In 2010, a Chinese reader and former Xi’an-based literary editor, Zhang Jianfeng, came to the Zhongnan Mountains, settled in the nearby village of West Cuihua, and founded Zhongnan Cottage — a space for hosting traditional Daoist and Buddhist practices as well as other cultural events.

The Hermit Culture Living On in China’s Misty Mountains
The Hermit Culture Living On in China’s Misty Mountains
The Hermit Culture Living On in China’s Misty Mountains
The Hermit Culture Living On in China’s Misty Mountains
The Hermit Culture Living On in China’s Misty Mountains
The Hermit Culture Living On in China’s Misty Mountains
The Hermit Culture Living On in China’s Misty Mountains
The Hermit Culture Living On in China’s Misty Mountains
The Hermit Culture Living On in China’s Misty Mountains
The Hermit Culture Living On in China’s Misty Mountains

Zhang Shiquan, the recently converted Daoist devotee, draws a link between the popularity of hermitism and disillusionment with China’s fast-paced, capitalist economic development. “In the past, real hermits went somewhere quiet to muse about the world,” Zhang says. “Now, many people come here just because they’re sick of it.”

But today, hermit lifestyles on the Zhongnan Mountains are under threat. Since last summer, a high-profile environmental protection campaign in Shaanxi province has demolished illegally built homes across the Qinling Mountains, where the Zhongnan Mountains are located. Although the hermits were not the original targets, some of their homes and temples were razed as part of the campaign.

“Many hermits in the Zhongnan Mountains rent illegal constructions. On the one hand, it affects the environment,” said Liang Xingyang — the secretary general of a Daoism association in Xi’an’s Chang’an District, which administers the Zhongnan Mountains — in a December interview with Beijing Youth Daily. “On the other hand, there are a lot of safety risks … Many hermits have no (official) place to live, so they come down from the mountains (following the demolitions).”

One person caught in the dragnet was Ma, a 40-something, fast-talking Buddhist convert who declined to give her first name out of concerns that visitors may disturb her after the publication of this article. In 2015, Ma came to the Zhongnan Mountains, where she found a deserted temple with collapsing walls and statues of gods that had been desecrated during the Cultural Revolution, she says. After four months’ work and tens of thousands of yuan, Ma’s new temple was completed, along with an annex of about 12 square meters in which she lived.

Over the years, Ma says she’s provided shelter for 17 people, most of them curious teenagers wandering on the mountains. “Some kids come here in winter, wearing just one layer and worn shoes. If I see them, I bring them back to my place,” Ma says. Others are not so lucky: Ma’s eyes redden when she recalls a youngster who died after trying to burn wood for warmth in a one-person tent. “You might be destined to meet a good master, or you might be destined to die on the mountains,” she muses.

In 2017, Ma went to Xi’an’s government-backed religious association to register her temple. She tried and failed several times before being told to visit a different department. But Ma’s impatience with the authorities came back to bite her eventually. In July of that year, she received a notice saying that her temple and bungalow would be demolished as part of the campaign against illegal constructions. Three days later, the buildings were torn down.

After the demolition, Ma moved to Beiji Temple. Despite her initial disappointment, she has come to terms with the demise of her ill-fated former home. “It’s an inevitable sacrifice,” she says.

Editor: Matthew Walsh.
(Header image: Hermit “Xinxing” stands on a pine tree branch in the Zhongnan Mountains, Dayukou Town, Shaanxi province, Nov. 14, 2018. Wu Huiyuan/Sixth Tone)

原创文章,作者:清风子,如若转载,请注明出处:http://qingfengguan.com/1086

(0)
打赏 微信扫一扫 微信扫一扫
清风子的头像清风子
上一篇 2019年6月2日
下一篇 2019年6月2日

相关推荐

  • 独具一格的瑶族道教信仰,看看和我们汉族道教有什么不同?

    提起道教,不少人第一印象还停留在“道教是我国土生土长的宗教”这句话上,而且潜意识里,也大多认为道教信仰和汉民族文化间割舍不断,但似乎和少数民族的联系不多。 实际上,不尽然,包括瑶族…

    2019年12月11日
    485
  • 萝卜快了不洗泥

    萝卜快了不洗泥最早是当时的老天津卫人说的,是当地爱用的一句俗语,刚开始是指在菜市场上,由于生意特别好,菜贩子顾不得收拾萝卜上的泥巴,就卖给顾客,现在逐渐的演变为当人们在做生意的时候…

    2023年9月13日
    274
  • 为何说西山派经典才是真正的丹经

    为何说西山派经典才是真正的丹经 作者:天地闲人​ 一、西山派经典内容 西山派丹经有:《钟吕传道集》、《灵宝毕法》、《西山群真会仙记》、《修真太极混元图》、《修真太极混元指玄图》,另…

    2022年1月8日
    545
  • 传统道教秘传养生功—揉脐养生功

    传统道教秘传养生功—揉脐养生功​ 《道德经》:“谷神不死,是谓玄牝。玄牝之门,是谓天地根,绵绵若存,用之不勤。”,有一说,肚脐为玄牝之门。 肚脐连接着先天未知的一切,随出生才断了此…

    2019年11月8日
    614
  • 抱朴子

    《抱朴子》是东晋葛洪撰总结了战国以来神仙家的理论,从此确立了道教神仙理论体系;又继承魏伯阳炼丹理论,集魏晋炼丹术之大成;它也是研究我国晋代以前道教史及思想史的宝贵材料。东晋道家理论…

    2022年10月16日
    324
  • 推荐一个国外网站——The Golden Elixir

    The Golden Elixir——Taoism and Taoist Alchemy www.goldenelixir.com

    2019年5月28日
    470
  • 猪年说猪:又蠢又脏又胖?真实的“佩奇”是啥样?

    提到“猪”,有人脑海里会蹦出餐桌上诱人的红烧肉,有人则会想到一个呆呆笨笨、白白胖胖的动物形象。 这些“刻板印象”有时候让“猪”变成了一个“贬义词”。比如,“你怎么蠢/脏/胖得跟猪一…

    2019年10月7日
    480
  • 圆珠笔、走珠笔、油性笔、中性笔、水性笔傻傻分不清?

    许多人会将圆珠笔和油性笔划等号。圆珠笔=油性墨水,走珠笔=水性,中性笔=中性墨水。 其实,利用滚珠在书写时与纸面直接接触产生摩擦力,使圆珠在球座内滚动,带出笔芯内的油墨或墨水,以达…

    2024年4月6日
    157
  • 伍柳丹法之传承与发展

    伍柳丹法之传承与发展 雷向阳    张涛     中国丹道,源远流长,作为传统天人合一文化的灵魂,她历经无数先贤圣真亲身实践和总结升华,对中国历史发展起着举足重轻的作用。其中,内丹…

    2024年2月17日
    178
  • 敲爻歌

    汉终唐国飘蓬客,所以敲爻不可测。纵横逆顺没遮栏,静则无为动是色。也饮酒,也食肉,守定胭花断淫欲。行歌唱咏胭粉词,持戒酒肉常充腹。色是药,酒是禄,酒色之中无拘束。只因花酒勿长生,饮酒…

    2022年10月11日
    445
联系我们

最新联系方式

邮箱:info@daomen.net

微信:colddao

电话:13909185601

QQ:97523900

分享本页
返回顶部